Who lives in Qatar?

Friday afternoons - Residents of South Asia origin flood the streets on their day off

What is the population breakdown in Qatar?

Most of us know that local Qataris only make up 10-15% of the 2.5 million population. Who are the rest of the residents then?

I'm sure there are many official population census that gives you accurate breakdown. But, what's the street breakdown? In other words, other than official figures, who does one actually sees or meet on the streets, in the offices and in the malls?

This is my street estimate of the population breakdown of Qatar:

Indian Subcontinent (India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Sri-Lankans, Nepalese, etc): 35%
Arabic Origin (Syrians, Egyptians, Jordanians, Yemenis, Lebanese, etc): 25%
Filipinos: 20%
First world (Americans, Europeans, Japanese, Koreans, etc): 10%
African origin: 5%
Others: 5%

These percentages are street estimate but I suspect should be close to official figures. These nationalities keep to a very broad band of the services and professions they work in. However, you can make some general assumptions, it is likely that:

Your Bus/Taxi/Limousine driver is likely to be from Bangladesh. 

It's funny but every Taxi driver I meet in Dubai is from Pakistan while every driver I used to meet in Qatar seems to be from Bangladesh. The nationalities has widen so they may come from India, Pakistan or Africa nowadays.

Your supermarket cashier is likely to be from Philippines. 

Every supermarket or shops seems to employ Filipinos for cashiering duties. Even large Hypermarket like Lulu, which is Indian owned, and employs Indians for every other supermarket role seems to only employ Filipinos for their cashiers. Is it because Filipinos are honest or quick on the count?

When you visit a 5-star hotel, the concierge or restaurant manager is likely to be Jordanians or Lebanese. 

In many supervisory, retail or F&B positions where there is a need to be fluent in English and Arabic, the Jordanians and Lebanese come forth with their language skills that allow them to easily mix and converse with their Arabic and English speaking clients directly.

If your child is in an International school, his/her teacher is likely to be from USA or Europe. 

You can bet that when you visit International schools that charge US$20,000 or more a year or Gordan Ramsey's fancy restaurant at the Pearl, the person receiving you is likely to be a white person from USA or Europe.

Qataris? 

Unless you work in the civil service sector or in a Qatari owned company, your chances of working or liaising with a Qatari is extremely small. I can count with one hand the number of times I had to speak to a Qatari on official matters. Even the traffic police or civil service officials whom you meet are not Qataris but Arabs working in Qatar.

Other nationalities are also beginning to make a presence in this country. It is not strange to find Turkish, Greek, Chinese and Korean construction companies participating in large construction projects all over Qatar.

The percentage and roles each nationality play is obviously a generalisation in this article. Of course, each nationality is represented in all jobs and roles and cuts across all sectors and profession and you are likely to come across some or all of them in your work and day to day living in Qatar.

As Qatar marches towards modernistion and World Cup 2022, we'll still continue to see large numbers of foreigners coming into Qatar. How these percentages will play out, we'll find out as it happens.

Medical Care in Qatar

Hamad General Hospital

Can you get good quality medical care in Qatar?

I arrived in Qatar in late 2008 when it was estimated that the total population, Qataris and expatriates, was just touching 1 million. It was recently estimated in late 2013 that the population is now about 2 million.

If the numbers are to be believed, then, Qatar has seen an explosive 1 million population growth in a short five years. This is nothing short of amazing and it is obvious that the public infrastructure and amenities, including healthcare, to support this rapid growth must be creaking under the strain.

Medical care is one of the main concern of new and existing residents to this country. Many expatriates from developed countries coming here would expect a high level of medical care for themselves and family while the sheer numbers of expatriates from developing countries would also surely cause a heavy strain on basic healthcare services.

Health screening for all newcomers to Qatar

Most people coming to work and stay in Qatar are generally healthy. Anyone applying for resident permits in Qatar need to produce clean health certificates from their home country doctors and are subjected to further health screening in Qatar that include blood and urine tests, x-rays and medical examinations in a common in-processing medical centre upon their arrival into Qatar. I know of several cases of would-be residents having their resident permits denied because these health checks picked up existing or new ailments.

These two tier health checks effectively ensure everyone coming in are basically healthy. Residents who received their resident permits can then apply to Hamad Hospital for a public health care card which is issued free to all qualified residents. 

The Hamad health card ensure all residents can receive very low cost health treatment at Hamad hospitals and it's subsidiary clinics and polytechnics. The public healthcare in Qatar is good and very comprehensive and some of the very best doctors in Qatar are found with Hamad Hospital.

Unfortunately, like all public amenities in Qatar, it is simply overwhelmed by demand for it's services. The out-patient clinics and pharmacies are packed, medical appointments take months and even getting parking is a big difficulty.

The government is acutely aware of this and there is constant upgrade of the current amenities at the current Hamad hospital while a new and much larger Hamad hospital is being built concurrently. As much as the public hospital is overwhelmed, the common understanding by all expatriates is that if you need emergency medical attention, Hamad hospital is still the best choice as it has the best trauma centre in the country as well as being the only hospital with full medical specialties.

Hamad hospital also has an excellent ambulatory service and you can see ambulances dotted around the country and civil defence posts so that they offer quicker reactionary timing. It is amazing to see Qataris road users who are usually not known to be courteous or patient drivers, spreading a clear path whenever they hear sirens, especially for ambulances.

Private healthcare in Qatar

For expatriates who cannot put up with the wait at public health system, many would seek private medical treatment either through their companies' healthcare benefits or on their own personal expense. Private clinics and hospitals are available throughout the country and charges and service quality varies according to the level of service provided.

The biggest and best private hospital in Qatar is the Al-Ali hospital and even then, it is not a comprehensive hospital and they will refer patients to go to Hamad hospital if they do not have the necessary expertise. Treatment at Al-Ali hospital is definitely not a cheap affair but one never fail to see an unending line of visitors.

There are a number of smaller private hospitals such as Doha clinic, American hospital, German clinic and others around the country.

There are also a number of small dental and polyclinics all over Doha. Pharmacies and prescriptions are easily fulfilled in retail pharmacies which are everywhere around the country.

New Hospitals in Qatar

Qatar is also building the Sidra Medical and Research Centre; which will raise the bar on advanced health and medical treatments, research and teaching. The Sidra Medical Hospital will specialise in female and children medical care.

In addition, Hamad hospital is constant renovating and upgrading their existing buildings and is building a much bigger and modern new hospital.

Both public and private healthcare in Qatar still fall short by World standards today. However, this is one area of public service where you can see the urgency and clear planning by the government to deliver adequate modern healthcare to it's people and expatriates alike.

Qatar for World Cup 2022

Poster supporting Qatar bid for World Cup 2011
(Pix credit:neptunenext.wordpress.com)

By now, most people would be aware of Qatar successful bid to host the 2022 World cup. What does it feel like to see Qatar successful World cup bid from the point of a local resident?

Most residents or expatriates like myself are proud that this small nation has been successful in it's World Cup bid. It is nothing short of amazement that this small nation has shot itself to prominence on the world's sporting platform.

Of course, the Qataris are extremely proud of their successful bid as well. Jubilant celebrations burst out spontaneously in the streets - honking cars, shrill whistles, flying flags, claps and singing, etc

Celebrations on the streets upon news of Qatar's successful bid for World Cup 2011

(Pix credit:http://sonyaandtravis.com)

Once the euphoria died down, reality sets in. Will tiny Qatar be able to successfully shoulder such a monumental task of hosting the FIFA world cup?

The newspapers give a emphatic yes. The officials interviewed give an emphatic yes. Qataris give an extremely confident yes. Residents who have been around for a while give a mixed reply. My opinion? - Mostly yes...

Money can and does conquer many difficulties. 

Qatar definitely has the financial muscle to shoulder the herculean task of building the infrastructure and the hosting of a FIFA world cup.

Growing country. 

As a small and growing country, it is so much easier for the various agencies to work together to produce a successful plan to work towards 2022. The world cup is also a good opportunity for the Qataris to forge a proud national identity that can bind the nation together.

Good Experience. 

Many people are not aware that Qatar has been working towards being a good sporting host nation. This small country had successfully hosted the Asian Games 2006 , Asian Football Cup 2010, annual ExxonMobile Tennis tournament, F1 powerboat tournament, Motorcyle Grand Prix and a host of other small and large sporting tournaments.

Time. 

There is still 10 years to go before 2022. There is time for the various infrastructure, transportation, accommodation and other plans to come into place.

Expertise. 

The country may lack some of the successful human expertise locally but it has never shown a lack to source the world and hire the best consultants or personnel that are required to both plan and carry out the plans for 2022.

So, if all indications show that Qatar will be able to host a successful 2022 World Cup Tournament, what is my personal plans?

I would like to come back to Qatar as a spectator to the world's most beautiful game. But not to reside in Qatar during this period especially in the 4 years prior to 2022. Why?

Because all residents know that Qatar will become one large construction site! Qatar is a fast growing country and it's infrastructure growth can hardly keep up with it's quick growth even as it is now. Roads are packed, shopping malls are crowded, there is long queues at government agencies, airports, gas stations, supermarkets. Parents have problem enrolling their children into good schools and children has to wake up super early just to avoid the morning school road jam.

Updated: November 2013

My prediction came true. Qatar has become one massive traffic jam as the population grew to beyond 2 million people in a short few years. There is massive road and building construction everywhere and people are complaining to the press and social media about the jams.

Just two days ago, I had to drive to the airport at 6:00am and there were already massive jams even on the highway as parents drive their children to schools and company bus send their workers to work.

There are anecdotal evidence that some long time residents has given up and went off the country as patience wear thin with the traffic. However, these small numbers does not counter the hordes of people arriving to take up residence as more and more job opportunities become available.

It will be some 10 years before the world cup. Construction projects can only increase and roads will continue be be chopped and changed as the city evolve to greet the world cup.

You have been warned. You are welcomed to Qatar if you can put up with the heat, traffic and construction chaos - not always necessary in that order!

Qatar FAQ

Credit: Unknown source

What do you want to ask about Qatar but felt it may be too trivial?

Every time I return home or meet someone on a overseas trip, people are always curious about Qatar. Gosh, you're working in the Middle-East... what is it like? So, to the curious visitors who has never been to Qatar or the Middle East, here's the answers to the most common questions I always get asked.

Q: Are there riots? You know, isn't there much revolution going on in the Middle East?
A: No, there are no riots. All is calm and quiet in Qatar.

Q: Are there terrorists?
A: Absolutely none!

Q: Is it desert everywhere?
A: No, the capital city of Qatar, Doha, is a modern city of more than a million people. Yes, it is mostly desert outside of Doha.

Q: Are the people very rich?
A: Like everywhere else, there are rich and poor people.

Q: Is it safe in the streets?
A: Absolutely safe. There are almost no crime in Qatar. Just don't get me started on safe driving...

Q: What food do you eat? I hear there are no pork.
A: Whatever I like; except pork of course.

Q: Are there only Arabic restaurants whenever you eat out?
A: No. There are as many Western, Chinese, Indian and Fastfood restaurants as there are Arabic ones.

Q: Must foreign women cover up? Can they wear what they like?
A: There is no need for foreign women to cover up. They can wear whatever they want as long as they are modest in their dressing.

Q: Are you fluent in Arabic?
A: Unfortunately not. English is used everywhere and my basic Arabic had become hopeless as I do not get a chance to practise.

Q: It it tough working in Qatar?
A: It can be tough or easy, depending on your job, just like anywhere else in the world.

Q: Do people understand each other at work
A: Most of the time, yes. English is widely used in the commercial world. The level of English vary in government and civil service sectors.

Q: Does everyone drive fancy cars?
A: Not true. I do not see many Ferrari, Porches, Maserati on the street. I do see a lot of SUV especially Toyota LandCruisers. I'm not sure they qualify as fancy cars.

Q: Is the weather bearable? Isn't it too hot?
A: The weather is quite acceptable for about 8 months of the year. It only becomes unacceptably hot during the summer months of June to November.

Q: Is my xxxx academic qualifications accepted?
A: There is a wide spectrum of companies in Qatar from all over the world. The companies from your home country is likely to accept your qualifications. If you are working in a foreign company, it is best to check with the HR department prior.

Q: You mean there are summer and winter in Qatar as well?
A: Yes, there are distinct summer and winter months in Qatar. It can go down to 12C during Winter and up to 48C during Summer.

Q: Is Dubai and Qatar the same place?
A: No. Dubai is part of UAE and they are separate sovereign countries. They are one hour away by flight from one another.

Q: Have you seen a transformer?
A: Although in the movie, Transformer 1, the first transformers were discovered in Qatar, I have yet to see one so far... :-) I have seen a few transformers in the toy stores though...

Review: Good Asian food in Qatar

Chinese chef at work. Pix credit

In a land where there are not too many social and recreational activities, the opportunity to enjoy good food becomes an obsession for many people. In the last couple of years, Qatar has seen more and more new restaurants serving cuisine from all over the world as more hotels and shopping malls come on-line.

There has always been a good choice of restaurants from Arabic and Western countries; Turkish, Lebanese, Iranian for the former and French, Italian, American for the latter. You can also easily find Filipino and Indian cuisine because most of the foreign workers are from these countries and some of these migrant workers has branched into opening small restaurants.

What has always been difficult to find is Asian food; especially those from the Far East. True, you can find many restaurants advertising Chinese food but once you find out that the cooks are Nepalese or Filipinos, you can imagine how 'authentic' these restaurants are.

If you are into Far Eastern food, here's my personal choice of the more authentic places:

Chinese restaurants

1. Beijing restaurant (Opposite Megamart)
Whenever one ask for recommendations for Chinese food, almost all will recommend Beijing restaurant. Unfortunately, Beijing restaurant serves Northern Chinese food, which I consider oily and less creative/varied than Southern Chinese food.

Fortunately, prices are reasonable and I visit it occasionally to add variety to my food choice.

Other Chinese restaurants serving the same genre of Northern Chinese food include Great Wall (Behind Megamart), Shanghai Garden (City Centre) and Wok of Fame (Villagio). I stopped visiting these restaurants the moment Chopstix and Tse Yang arrived.

2. Chopstix at Holiday Villa Hotel
Chopstix is as close as you can get to Singapore/Malaysia style of Chinese food which is reasonably close to Cantonese/Hong Kong style. The chefs are from Malaysia and Dim Sum is served as well.

This is a popular restaurant with Malaysians and Singaporeans and their Peking Duck, a perennial favorite with Western expats, is the closest you can get to the real stuff from Peking itself. In addition to Chinese food, you can get a good choice of Malaysian/Singapore cuisine of Curry Fish head, Claypot Mutton, Fishball noodle and Fried rice.

3. Tse Yang at The Pearl
This is the latest Chinese restaurant to reach Qatar. Located at The Pearl, it boast Hong Kong chefs and waiting staff from China.

They are so new as of this writing that they are yet to offer a full menu as they still have problems getting the full range of ingredients and spices locally. Prices are a bit steep, waiting staff are inexperienced and the dining experience still feel incomplete despite their swanking decor.

By the way, if you need a bit of wine or beer with Chinese food, this is your best choice.

Korean restaurants

1. Moon Palace
Located at Nassr street, this is my favorite Korean restaurant. The restaurant ambiance is very close to what you can find in South Korea, down to the restaurant decoration, the BBQ pit at each table and the pretty authentic Korean signature dishes of Bul-Go-Gi, Kimchi and Bean paste soup.

This is the restaurant that the Korean expat community come to for some home comfort. You almost feel that you're in Korea when you're here until you realise that the waiters are from Nepal!

2. Korean Garden
This is the other Korean restaurant that is located at Al Sadd Street. The restaurant is popular with the Western expat community but I do not see as many Korean expats as in Moon Palace. Perhaps that the food here is a tad of a lower standard than Moon Place could be a good reason.

When it comes to food, always follow this wise advice - Go where the native go.

Japanese restaurants

1. Oishi at Royal Plaza Mall
My first experience when they just opened was a bit disappointing but quality seems to improve with each subsequent visit. Their Bento set, Teppanyaki and Sushi has been reasonably good and close to what you can get for the money in Qatar.

Service tend to be a bit slow, prices are a bit steep and I can't believe that there is no free flow of Green Tea.

2. Shushi Minto at Salwa Road
I visited Shushi Minto once and was shocked at the prices. I ended up with a promotional Bento set which was very good. I visited it again for it's Friday brunch but ended up disappointed by the poor choice of Japanese food. (Who will visit a Japanese buffet with pasta on it's selection!).

Sushi and Sashimi choices was poor and not good. Maybe it's just the brunch crowd that caused the drop in standard but it's definitely not my place for sushi or sashimi.

Thai restaurants

1. Thai Snack at Al Nasr Street
This is the perennial expat favorite eating place in Qatar. They have been around for a while and every expat seem to know this restaurant. It's popularity seems to make the small restaurant even more busy and getting a table at peak time can be difficult.

Food is reasonable, prices so-so and service seems to be a bit slow. Not exactly my favorite place because I always associate Thai restaurants with fantastic food, service and price and I don't seem to find the complete combination here.

2. Isaan at Hyatt hotel
This is a high-end Northern Thai restaurant complete with open-concept kitchens located in a 5-star hotel. Dining ambiance is good, food is above average and Singha beer is served.

Unfortunately, prices are steep and portions are extremely small. Be prepared to order at least 4-5 dishes instead of the usual 2-3 dishes for 2 persons. Complete your meal with the very authentic sticky rice and mango dessert.

3. Jasmine at the Souk
Latest Thai restaurant to arrive in Qatar. 99% authentic Thai as the chefs, waiting staff, food ingredients, furniture, cutlery are shipped entirely from Thailand. If you are a Thai, you'll feel completely at home here.

Food is authentic Thai, prices a tad pricey and service is good. The restaurant offer two menu; Thai and Chinese. My suggestion is to skip the Chinese menu and stick to the Thai menu. Only con about this restaurant is that it is a little off the main route and can be difficult to locate. Also, they need to fix their weak air-conditioner!

Malaysian/Indonesian restaurants

1. Central Restaurant at Umm Ghuwailina
This is a popular restaurant with Indonesian, Malaysian and Singapore expats. A rather difficult to locate small restaurant that sells delicious Indonesian favorites.

Like typical Indonesian restaurants, you queue to select your dishes that goes with your rice. The rendang, sambal chilli and telor is almost as good as what you can get in Indonesia. This restaurant tends to get crowded during meal time and getting a table can be difficult.

2. Sri Kebaya at the Souk
Many of us had high expectations as this restaurant advertise itself as an authentic Malaysian restaurant.

Many of us had also came away disappointed as the Nasi Lemak (a signature Malaysian dish) falls completely flat. Even the beef or chicken rendang simply does not have the 'oommp' that you would expect from a Malaysian restaurant. On the other hand, the sambal prawn was pretty authentic as was the Nasi goreng.

Prices was on the high side when I last visit. However, have heard that prices has been adjusted downwards but am unable to confirm this.

Food in Qatar

Once you settle down into your accommodation and job in Qatar, the next big hurdle or challenge is invariably food.

If you cook, you'll find that many familiar foodstuff you get in your home supermarket is not available here. It does not matter where you are from in the world. I hear the same familiar complaints from Lebanese, American and British colleagues.

For those who regularly have pork as part of their diet, you may suffer from 'pork-withdrawal symptom'; if there is ever such a symptom. Sufferers of such symptoms are known to take flight over the weekend to Dubai or Bahrain to satisfy the withdrawal crave.

Some will sneak some pork back and hide-and-seek stories with airport custom officers are well regaled adventures.

Of course we know that pork is not available in this strict Muslim country but familiar vegetables such as Kailan, Bak Choi, Bean sprout, Kang Kong are also not available too or only at a high price.

Americans will complain that their favorite snacks are not available, Lebanese the quality of Yogurt, Italians the selection of olive oils, Englishmen the availability of sausages, Singaporeans the choice of vegetables, etc. As large as the supermarkets here are, they can never satisfy the varied needs of the number of nationalities who congregate in this small country.

Food is a challenge for those who do not cook as well.

You'll find restaurants and food courts only at the malls and hotels. There are also a sprinkling of restaurants along some roads and petrol kiosks. However, it does not matter where you find them; your choice are always limited to:

1. American Fast Food (They are everywhere!)
2. Middle Eastern Fast Food (Almost everywhere!)
3. Indian Food

Fast Food - Invented in the Middle-East?

Middle Eastern Fast Food - Sharwama

Indian Bryani

For those who abhor fast food, and there are indeed many such people, you are in tough trouble. Your next best bet are the Shawama (if you do not get sick of it) or the Indian Bryani (if you do not mind getting clogged arteries).

Once you want to move past these 3 choices, you will now face the challenge of:

1. Finding parking spots
2. Pay the high price

What has that to do with eating your favorite food?

Well, the better restaurants, be it Italian, American, Chinese, Thai or Japanese are inevitably located in malls or hotels where parking is almost always a hassle and food prices are always 50% or more what you'll need to pay back in their native land for the exact same food.

You either live without your favorite food or you can go through the hassle of finding parking lots and/or paying through your nose for the privilege of indulging in some comfort food.

For some, the indulgence of their favorite food in hotels come with the added benefit of having alcohol, for the only place in Qatar where you can have food with alcohol outside of your home, is only in hotels.

For the rest of us, where money does not fall from the sky or spurt from underground, I hear that Instant Noodles, Pasta and sandwiches are perennial favorites.

Pix-Courtesy of their various owners

Pumping petrol in oil-rich Qatar

Qatar modern skyline

Qatar is sometimes a strange country. This is a country that produces one of the world's largest supply of oil and gas and prides itself on it's infrastructure modernisation program with sleek and spanky buildings and malls.

Many of the world's largest petroleum companies are here; think Chevron, Mobil, QatarGas, Shell etc either as an original entity or in some form of joint-venture.

This is also a country where almost every one drives. If you're a keen reader of automobile magazines, you might as well throw away your magazine and just check out the latest cars on the road. You'll easily find the latest sleek Porsche race car alongside luxurious Lexus SUV to workhorses like Honda Civics and Nissan Tidas.

For a country with all these conditions in place, you'll expect that Petrol(Gas) stations here will be classy showcases for the various big gas companies aptly suitable for the country's Porsche, Lexus, Mercedes, Audi and Cadillacs...

Old petrol stations

Nothing can be further from the truth. Gas stations in Qatar tend to be old, run-down, pot-holed and without convenience stores or auto facilities like workshops and tyre-shops. Most of them are gas station dealers that has been around for a decade or two and has not seen any upgrades for as long.

Most of the time, you do not even know what brand of gas you are pumping. Is it Shell, Mobil, Chevron or something else? You are more likely to see the individual station owner's name than the brand of gas - Abu Nakhla Petrol Station, Al Muntazah Petrol Station, Doha Petrol Centre, Rayyan Petrol Station, Umm Said Petrol Station etc

And instead of convenience shops, you're likely to find kebab shops, barbers, tailors, children toy shops, electronic shops and the occasional fast-food shop.

Gas stations are mostly old and run-down

Most of these stations look like they have freeze in time from the 70s and 80s... especially with their old looking petrol pumps, bi-directional pumping lanes, pot-holes in the lanes, petrol attendants and cash-only transactions.

European expatriates are amazed to have some-one pump the petrol for them, Americans complain about not being able to pick up drinks at the convenience store and Asians wonder why they can't fix their tyre at the same time...

Of course, things are changing and new petrol stations coming up seems to be following conventional worldwide trends; sleek pumping stations, large convenience store, auto car-wash stations, auto-repair shops etc

Until then, we'll just have to horn at each other as we meet head-to-head at the older petrol stations.